This is the way

In November, the forested slopes of Japan’s mountains turn red, orange, and yellow. Amid this vibrant tapestry, sharp spires of ancient temples occasionally appear, while hidden paths lead to the red torii gates of Shinto shrines. Ice-cold streams cascade over rocks in waterfalls.

This season in Japan is called Momiji, the time to admire maple leaves. The tradition dates back to the 8th century and is as significant as the reverence for cherry blossoms or plum trees. Sei Shonagon, in her "Pillow Book," compares the crimson color of court ladies' robes to these leaves.

Momiji begins earliest on Hokkaido island, starting its majestic journey from the north to the south. Each year, Japan's Meteorological Agency publishes forecasts predicting when the yellow and red hues will peak in various regions. This year, the dates for Osaka are November 29 and December 9.

Such a long wait! You could visit earlier—Hokkaido is beautiful too. However, residents of every region in Japan firmly believe their autumn is the most stunning. Aren’t the gorges around Toyama, with tramways stretching across them, mesmerizing? And what about the autumn view of Mount Fuji? Or the Nikko area, home to the Imperial Villa and the tomb of Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu? It’s impossible to argue—Japan boasts countless places that take your breath away. Our argument is simple: head to the very heart of Yamato.

How quintessentially Japanese it is to follow a chosen path step by step! Fly from Moscow to bustling, ultramodern Osaka (where, according to the "Kojiki" chronicle, the first settlers of the Japanese islands arrived). Visit the country's ancient capital, Nara, with its temples and deer park. Then venture into the wilderness—into the mountains, where untouched, stunningly beautiful nature has inspired hermits seeking enlightenment and "stealthy ones" honing their martial skills.

Osaka

The author of the popular Telegram channel about Japan, @wrenjapan, calls Tokyo the "Japanese Moscow" and Osaka and Kyoto the "Japanese St. Petersburg." In this pairing, Kyoto embodies a refined atmosphere, while Osaka is known for its bars, nightlife, and trendy brands.

The main historical landmark is the majestic castle, famously destroyed by Oda Nobunaga, a brilliant military commander known for his audacious and cunning strategies (still studied today). Later, it was rebuilt by the even more remarkable Toyotomi Hideyoshi. A commoner nicknamed "monkey" for his unimpressive appearance, Hideyoshi rose to become the most powerful man in Japan through sheer calculation and diligence. Obsessed with immortalizing his legacy, he loved building and decorating. The result was the largest castle of its time. Tokugawa Ieyasu later reconstructed the fortress, ending the Sengoku Jidai wars (the era that inspired George Lucas for his Star Wars knights) and uniting the country. The castle was struck by lightning and burned down, but it was rebuilt in concrete, not wood, in 1931. Today, it houses a museum partially dedicated to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The impressive main tower is surrounded by secondary citadels, gates, turrets, massive stone walls, and moats. Nishinomaru, once the "Western Citadel," is now a grassy garden with 600 cherry trees, a tea pavilion, a former guesthouse, and a beautiful view of the castle tower from below.

Osaka is often called "Japan's kitchen." Gourmets from around the world will find plenty to savor here. A hotel boom, which we’ll discuss later, has attracted star chefs. French chefs Yannick Alléno and Anne-Sophie Pic have found their place in the new Four Seasons Osaka hotel and Japan’s first Maison Dior café. Gucci has opened a Japanese version of its Florentine bar, Gucci Giardino. Louis Vuitton launched the world’s first Le Café V in its flagship boutique. You must see it! Jun Aoki designed the four-story building’s glass panels to resemble sails of Edo-era Japanese trading ships blown by the wind.

However, Osaka’s true gastronomic soul lies in its street food, whose history dates back to the era when the city was Japan’s business capital, brimming with entrepreneurial spirit and a desire for wealth.

In the Namba district, Wakana restaurant, awarded a Bib Gourmand, specializes in takoyaki—golden octopus balls with a crispy crust and melting filling, Osaka’s culinary hallmark. Nearby, Fukutaro expertly prepares okonomiyaki—savory pancakes with meat and vegetables sizzling on griddles. Yaekatsu, in the working-class Shinsekai area, is beloved for kushikatsu—everything from lotus root to juicy shrimp, breaded in panko, skewered, and fried to golden perfection. For a more refined culinary experience, visit Daibon in the Nishi-Tenma district. But perhaps the most iconic dish in Osaka is udon—silky noodles in a rich umami broth of kombu and bonito, a legacy of centuries of maritime trade. Try kitsune udon, with fried tofu in a sweet-salty sauce, at Usamitei Matsubaya, operating since 1893.

Immerse yourself in Osaka’s atmosphere by mingling with locals over snacks and craft drinks in bars across the city, such as Komemaru, which offers a modern take on tachinomi (standing bars).

For Expo-2025, which concluded in August, numerous luxury hotels were built. Four Seasons Osaka, with its 175 rooms, leads the way in the historic Dojima district. One of its floors is a "modern ryokan," reinterpreting Japanese hospitality traditions, with 21 unique rooms featuring elegant tatami and retro-chic bathrooms with deep soaking tubs. In May, Waldorf Astoria joined with 248 rooms, adding Art Deco splendor to the Grand Green Osaka zone. Meanwhile, Patina, wellness-oriented and set to open next spring between the castle and Naniwanomiya Park, will honor the city’s coastal heritage, using organic materials and design elements inspired by nature. The prestigious RIHGA Royal Hotel Osaka will reopen after an 88-billion-yen renovation, becoming Japan’s first IHG Vignette Collection hotel. It retains its prime location in Nakanoshima but updates its inventory of 1,001 rooms and suites.

Nara

Japan has changed its capital many times. Moreover, the country long had two centers—the sacred Imperial Court in Kyoto and the samurai administration in Kamakura, later Edo (modern Tokyo). But before the "descendant of the goddess Amaterasu" settled in Kyoto, the Japanese throne was in Nara (from 710 to 784).

This is where you should go from Osaka, especially since the journey takes only half an hour. Nara is a picturesque small city with numerous temples, historic gardens, and other attractions. All roads here lead to Todai-ji’s doorstep. This Buddhist temple is considered the world’s largest wooden structure. Have you ever seen Japanese carpenters at work? Take a look at some videos—they use fantastically complex joints to assemble wooden parts without a single nail. They even have competitions for the length and thinness of shavings produced with one stroke of a plane. Incidentally, the best Japanese tools are as sharp as samurai swords and priced accordingly. Inside, visitors are greeted by creations of this art. But the main attraction is the 15-meter statue of the Great Buddha. The bronze Vairocana (Daibutsu) seems to gesture with his hand: "Peace, only peace." And you can’t argue. To cast it, Emperor Shomu imposed special taxes in a country poor in metals, and over two million people—essentially the entire population—were involved in constructing the temple complex. Outside the temple, there’s another famous statue—a wrinkled monk, Bodhisattva Jizo, revered in Japan as a kind helper and guide, dressed in red robes.

Visit the temple museum Shosoin, whose art collection is considered the oldest in the world. Here, you can see an extensive array of manuscripts, Buddhist relics, musical instruments, clothing, weapons, and crafts. The most fascinating exhibits are a pair of ritual swords, Yokohen and Inkohen, adorned with gold, silver, and glaze. In 756, Empress Komyo hid them beneath the Great Buddha statue as sacred relics and temple talismans. During the Meiji era, the swords were discovered, but only in 2010 did scientists confirm they were the Empress’s original gift.

Nara Park has a couple more temples worth visiting. Kofuku-ji once included 175 buildings, but today only the main hall and a three-tiered pagoda from the 13th century remain.

For aesthetic pleasure, head to Kasuga-taisha, Japan’s second most important Shinto shrine. This family sanctuary of the powerful Fujiwara clan, who intermarried with emperors, features white buildings with red beams and curved cypress roofs, surrounded by ancient forest trails lined with moss-covered stone lanterns. There are 2,000 lanterns, and deer often wander between them.

A few minutes’ walk from the main complex is the temple’s botanical garden, Shin’en Manyo. It showcases around 250 plant species described in "Manyoshu," the oldest Japanese poetry collection from the Nara period.

Deer seem to be everywhere here, and many visitors come for them. However, the herd lives only in the park. They fully exploit their sacred status. The deer are seemingly wild, but they are summoned with horn calls to be fed.

Previously, Nara was considered a day trip destination from Kyoto or Osaka, but after the COVID pandemic, when foreign tourists flooded the reopened country, hotels began to spring up in the city. If Osaka feels too noisy with its steel and glass skyscrapers, and Kyoto too "touristy," you might want to stay here.

The most luxurious hotel is Fufu Nara, designed by Kengo Kuma. Absolute tranquility reigns in interiors finished with Yoshino cedar and adorned with traditional ceramics and hemp mats. Sisley’s spa center is indispensable after long walks. Water from a private hot spring onsen is supplied to the rooms.

The founders of Villa Comunico, a husband-and-wife duo of high-class professional chefs, first ran a restaurant before transforming it into a boutique hotel with just five suites. The villa is beautifully situated on the eastern side of Nara Park, at the foot of Mount Wakakusa. In the park’s western part, the new Shisui hotel recently opened in 19th–20th-century buildings renovated and enhanced with Kengo Kuma’s ubiquitous touch. The views of nature through panoramic windows are magnificent.

Iga and the 48 Waterfalls

Everything related to ninjas is overly commercialized. Thus, a connoisseur might avoid using the word "ninja" (thinking of those who throw sharpened stars, fly, and blow powders in movies) and prefer the stricter term "shinobi."

Nevertheless, visiting a spy hideout is intriguing. The journey from Osaka to Iga takes about an hour and a half. At the Iga-ryu Museum, there’s a ninja house resembling a labyrinth, open to visitors. Here, ninjutsu masters demonstrate combat techniques, and you can test yourself by trying to hit a target with a sharp blade. After the museum, visit the nearby Iga Ueno Castle, once home to the region’s rulers.

Yunoyama Onsen is a hot spring resort where you can always find peace in a relaxing bath, whether you stay at a hotel or simply visit the baths. A cable car takes you to the summit of Mount Gozaisho with stunning views.

After this essential program, head to less mainstream activities—the mountains and waterfalls where shinobi honed their skills and meditated. This is actually a hiking trail with stops. Perhaps it’s worth tackling it separately, without Iga.

Next, take a hike along the river to admire the enchanting Akame waterfalls. Rare giant salamanders inhabit the untouched rivers and waterfalls here. If you’re lucky, you might spot them in the wild. If not, before starting the four-kilometer trail, you can visit the Japanese Salamander Center to see the world’s largest amphibian up close. The number 48 isn’t exact—it’s a Japanese way of saying there are many waterfalls. In reality, there are only five main ones, with more minor ones scattered around.

The trail winds through a gorge with steep slopes, and in autumn, the colors are dazzling. Buddhists compare Akame’s landscape to a mandala, and there’s a legend about the local maples. One of Oda Nobunaga’s vassals reported seeing especially bright red leaves here. The warlord ordered a branch to be brought to him, but when they tried to pluck it, a forest spirit appeared as a beautiful girl and said, "These leaves are the souls of the dead, and their color is the color of blood." She forbade anyone to pick them…

Near Fudo Waterfall, a bridge spans the ravine. From here, you get one of the most picturesque views in the reserve. Senju Waterfall splits into multiple streams, earning comparisons to the thousand-armed Bodhisattva Kannon. Nunobiki Waterfall, 30 meters tall, has carved a deep basin into the hard rock with crystal-clear water. Ninai is beautiful because its water flows around a large boulder. Biwa Waterfall resembles a lovely blue shell.

The waterfalls are tied to one of the fascinating shinobi practices, allowing one to strengthen willpower and experience near-total detachment—meditation under the streams. It’s captivating to think that among the roaring water, masters and apprentices sat, striving for inner peace.

However, the art of ninjutsu is an adapted, simplified practice of the mountain hermits, yamabushi, for secret warfare. Even more extreme than the black-clad, masked figures, they still exist today, dressed in white and following the Shugendo tradition—a blend of Shinto shamanism, Taoism, and Buddhist tantra. The tradition is believed to have been founded in the 7th century by the ascetic En no Gyoja, a hero of fantastical tales revered throughout Japan. (He supposedly meditated in Akame and saw a mountain spirit in the form of a black bull with red eyes.) Shugendo adherents believe that cultivating physical endurance leads to enlightenment. Their sacred sites are located southeast of Nara.

Mount Omine

Perhaps the most mysterious and romantic place on the Japanese islands is the sacred mountain in the southern part of Nara Prefecture. For over a millennium, it has served as a site of spiritual practice for those seeking to elevate their consciousness. Women are still not allowed here. Yes, imagine that—even though it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Japan is a thoroughly Westernized country. The Japanese politely apologize but ask women to choose other mountains.

Omine is famous for its so-called "Three Trials of Courage." The first involves climbing a nine-meter rock, where climbers must swing using an embedded chain on the final stretch. In the second, participants are held head-first over a 60-meter cliff, forced to acknowledge their mistakes. The most severe trial requires grabbing a stone pillar at the edge of a precipice and maneuvering around it without falling. It’s done alone. No safety gear. A true hermit must complete it after prolonged fasting and sleeplessness. For them, Mount Omine was only one of the starting points on the 170-kilometer Omine-Okugakemichi trail. This isn’t your typical army obstacle course!

The ascent of Mount Omine is quite challenging. Essentially, it’s a four-hour hike up a vertical forested slope, which will heavily tax your cardiovascular system even before you reach the Trials of Courage. Afterward, there’s a long descent—a new challenge that will strain all the small muscle groups responsible for balance.

If you plan to reach this part of Nara Prefecture, you should explore a few more attractions before returning to Osaka or Kyoto. Start with a night in the village of Dorogawa Onsen, with its hot springs—a perfect way to fully immerse yourself in the region. There are several places to spend the night after a tough journey; choose and book the one that suits you best.

Beyond the immediate vicinity of Mount Omine, you should also visit Mount Yoshino and Kinpusen-ji Temple.

Finally, for bike enthusiasts, the nearby Mitarai Valley is a prime example of natural beauty.

Zen popularizer Daisetz Suzuki wrote: "In reverent respect for nature lies the profound religious sentiment I wish to see even in our era of science, economics, and wars."

This is the soul of Japan, which will endure, as the national anthem says, "until moss adorns the rocks that grew from gravel." And beyond.