Tailored to impress
The ateliers on Savile Row boast extensive VIP client lists — titled, globally renowned, or known only in select circles. Yet, the prestige of each tailoring "temple" has its nuances. Behind the strict tailoring of Huntsman’s fitted jackets with athletic shoulders lies a broad-minded approach. This was true even a century ago when their tailors crafted hunting attire for Coco Chanel. Their inclination toward experimentation has only grown over the past twelve years under the leadership of long-haired Belgian financier Pierre Lagrange.
In a new project, the London tailors extended a hand to an enthusiast from the American Midwest. Kevin Fitzke, a restorer of Riva boats from Minnesota, handcrafts wooden speedboats called Miss Moonshine. These are not replicas of early 20th-century prototypes but entirely original designs! Fitzke trained in hull design, hydrodynamics, materials science, and CAD under naval architect Michel Berrier. He rebuilds engines from 320-horsepower GM 350s. Fascinated by the clock mechanisms and dashboards of vintage boats and cars, he began designing his own control panels. Fitzke sews seat upholstery on vintage sewing machines. He cuts hull components from Honduran mahogany, carefully selecting each plank with his experienced eye. Everything is done meticulously — using joinery, hand planes, and Japanese saws. However, where manual work isn’t essential, he employs CNC machines and even 3D printers. Perhaps the most charming touch is the vintage-style keys with non-sinking cork keychains. The design is approved by the ABYC and the U.S. Coast Guard.
Only two two-seater speedboats, measuring 7 meters in length and 1.86 meters in width, resembling torpedoes, are produced each year. Each boat is a true work of art that immediately finds its way to a collector.
Huntsman supplies water-repellent tweed for Miss Moonshine. It is used to upholster the seats and the inner surfaces of the boat's sides. You can choose fabric from the catalog, but that’s not the pinnacle of craftsmanship.
The ultimate luxury is ordering tweed with a custom pattern. Other Savile Row ateliers also offer this option, but there’s a catch. While competitors source fabric externally, Huntsman has its own handloom! Clients describe the color scheme they want, and the specialists refine their ideas, show archives, explain weaving techniques, and discuss the properties of different yarns. Several design sketches are then prepared for the client to choose from. A sample piece of fabric is woven on-site, and clients can watch the process. Once approved, a 30-meter roll is produced and stored at the atelier. Huntsman’s head designer and creative director, Campbell Carey, personally oversees the creation of each custom fabric.
The collaboration between Huntsman and Fitzke Boatworks began in 2019 when Pierre Lagrange, the owner of Huntsman, commissioned a mahogany paddleboard called Bootleg, with a bow painted in a tweed pattern. He auctioned it off at Sotheby’s for charity. The paddleboard features a hidden compartment for personal items (or a bottle of bourbon). It was displayed in the Huntsman storefront at 11 Savile Row, alongside lightweight sports jackets for yacht outings and sunglasses.
This collaboration is very much in Huntsman’s spirit. Throughout its 176-year history, the atelier has been closely associated with outdoor leisure, whether it’s hunting, yachting, golf, or fight scenes in the "Kingsman" film franchise, for which they tailored suits. Deer heads on the walls have long been considered the atelier’s mascots. The historic building not only houses the aforementioned loom but also features a saddle on a special stand. During fittings, clients sit in the saddle to ensure their suit fits well while horseback riding.
Today, Huntsman is following the lead of many luxury brands by promoting its own lifestyle concept. The more diverse the activities and the more unique the collaborations, the better. Huntsman’s signature style extends to the interiors of private residences, car cabins, and aircraft salons. A comparable example in the yachting world is Riva, with its accessory collections, branded lounge areas, and designs for homes, business jets, and helicopters. Such an approach is also common on Savile Row. For instance, Henry Poole collaborates with whiskey and car brands, and most ateliers now offer accessory lines and ready-to-wear collections.
Looking at Huntsman’s experience, in 2004, during Alexander McQueen’s lifetime, they released a capsule collection of suits based on sketches by the rebellious designer, who had previously honed his skills at other ateliers like Anderson & Sheppard and Gieves & Hawkes (and, according to legend, once pranked King Charles III by altering his jacket). McQueen later became a Huntsman client, and the atelier eventually purchased a suit made for him at auction. Huntsman also collaborated with Jo Malone on a collection of colognes and a candle. For Reebok, they designed fabric for sneakers. Together with Rolex, they presented a Daytona watch model as an homage to Paul Newman, a Huntsman client. They also partnered with Mulliner to design the interiors of the Bentley Bentayga and Continental GTC Huntsman Edition, and with Gordon Murray Automotive to create the interior design for one of 100 T.50 supercars.
Without a doubt, the bespoke production of handcrafted boats for refined aesthetes aligns perfectly with the spirit and traditions of London’s tailors.
